2021 Bodegas Exopto Rioja El Espinal de Exopto

Bodegas Exopto is all about pushing the boundaries of Rioja, and El Espinal is a perfect example. Sourced from a tiny 0.3-hectare vineyard at 650 metres altitude in San Vicente de la Sonsierra, this wine is made entirely from Maturana Tinta - a rare, almost-forgotten variety that’s slowly making a comeback.

Frenchman Tom Puyaubert, who founded Exopto in 2003, works with grower Miguel Ángel Mato to farm these old bush vines using traditional methods, including cultivation by mule. In the winery, the fruit undergoes vinification intégrale - fermented in 600L French oak barrels that are gently rolled rather than plunged or pumped over, creating a wine of fine texture and elegance rather than overt extraction. After fermentation, it spends 15 months aging in those same barrels before bottling.

The result is something truly unique for Rioja - bright, lifted, and structured, with a balance of Atlantic freshness and Mediterranean depth. A rare and fascinating expression of the region’s high-altitude terroir.

96 points
"Visit the vineyard, and you can see why El Espinal is so special, combining both Atlantic and Mediterranean influences. This is one of Rioja's best Maturana Tintas, with aromas of graphite, earth, and rocket, fleshy tannins, plum and black cherry fruit, a balsamic twist, and an energetic, acid-driven finish. A remarkable expression of a great terroir."
- Tim Atkin (Rioja Report 2024)