2022 G.D Vajra Barolo Albe
Albe is G.D. Vajra doing things the old-school way, Giuseppe Vaira's tip of the cap to the great Piemontese winemakers of the 1950s and 1960s. Before single-vineyard bottlings became the main event, Barolo was all about blending, pulling together fruit from different sites to make something complete. That’s exactly what this is.
It’s a mix of three high-up vineyards: Coste di Vergne, La Volta and Fossati, each facing a different direction. The 2022 vintage was a roasting, parched season that had plenty of local growers sweating, but Giuseppe sees these tough years as moments that mature the wines. He completely avoided over-extracting the fruit, turning out a release that feels a touch lighter than the 2021 but makes up for it with supreme class and immaculate balance.
The wine jumps out with wild strawberries, dried flower petals, citrus oil and a cool hint of mint, backed by a fine, chalky tannin grip that keeps the back end clean and long. It's a proper Barolo but not unapproachable as many can be in their youth, meaning you can happily cellar it or pour it tonight with a bit of air.
As always, straight-up value from a family at the peak of their powers.
94 points
"Deeper red fruits, spice, orange peel, a little earthy, some perfume like rosehip. Medium to full-bodied, has freshness, a ripe lightly grainy grip to tannin, finishes clean and long. A really good Albe. Distinct, quite open, and already good to drink."
- Gary Walsh (The Wine Front)