2022 Mac Forbes Spear Gully Vineyard Chardonnay

Spear Gully is one of the most distinctive sites in Mac Forbes’ line-up. Perched at 270m in Hoddles Creek, it’s his highest vineyard in the Upper Yarra and the only one rooted in volcanic red soils. Planted in 1997 and sheltered by native bush, the block consistently delivers Chardonnay that feels a little different – more savoury, more structural – compared with the other single-vineyard wines.

The 2022 season kept everyone on their toes, with a wet winter and spring bringing low yields but healthy canopies. Careful timing at harvest was critical, and the fruit came in with a mix of concentration and bright natural acidity. In the cellar the handling was as pared-back as ever: wild ferment, old oak, no fining, no fuss.

The wine has drive and edge, with citrus, green apple and grapefruit in the foreground, subtle nutty tones and a hint of saline through the finish. It’s not a showy Chardonnay – instead it’s lean, mineral and tightly bound, built for slow unfolding in the glass or with a few years in the cellar.