2022 Protero Nebbiolo

Stephen Pannell’s connection to Nebbiolo runs deep, back to his early days working in Barolo, and the Protero label is where that long obsession has truly found its home. He’s been working with fruit from the Baldasso vineyard in the Adelaide Hills since 2005 and took over the lease in 2019. Most of the site has since been replanted, but the original 1999 Nebbiolo block remains, producing some of the most convincing examples of the variety outside Piedmont.

This 2022 release captures everything Pannell believes Nebbiolo should be: varietal, textural and drinkable. It’s medium-bodied and fragrant, showing bright red fruits, raspberry and plum alongside fennel, chinotto and a faint citrus twist. There’s a savoury edge that keeps it grounded - something between cured meat and spice - without ever feeling heavy.

The tannins are classic Nebbiolo: firm, grapey and long, but handled with Pannell’s typical touch for balance. They roll through the palate in waves rather than walls, giving shape and energy instead of austerity.

It’s built to drink now, though it’ll hold easily for close to a decade. A modern Australian Nebbiolo that proves the variety has truly found a home in the Adelaide Hills.