2023 Brash Higgins R/SM Riesling Semillon
Brash Higgins’ R/SM is an ode to McLaren Vale’s coastal whites, blending Riesling (70%) and Semillon (30%) in a dry-grown, single-vineyard field blend from a tiny half-acre block in Blewitt Springs. Planted in 1975 by a German farmer, these two varieties ripen side by side, are picked together, spend a couple of days on skins, and co-ferment wild in old French barriques - resulting in a wine of true place and character.
The 2023 vintage shows all the crystalline citrus energy of Riesling, cut through with the lemony flesh and savoury depth of Semillon. There’s an almost saline, margarita-like freshness, making it a natural fit for seafood - oysters, salt and pepper squid, King George whiting. The texture, shaped by 12 months in seasoned oak and a single steel barrel, adds depth and complexity without weighing it down.
Bright, zippy, and packed with coastal charm, this is effortless summer drinking with serious pedigree. Only 70 dozen made - don’t miss it.
95 points
"Intensely savoury, full of flavour and textural plump, trimmed in with a feathery phenolic grip and fine line of acidity. Candied lime pith, green apple tarte Tatin, stone fruit kernel, fennel frond, pine needle, fresh mint and an iodine-tinged oyster-like ferrous-ity. It’s a tussle – energetic, viscous and flavourful – all tumbling out in an oceanic dump of salinity with a positive citrus-pith bitterness. Needs a little time, but it’s compelling stuff."
- Marcus Ellis (Halliday Wine Companion)