2023 Jean-Francois Ganevat Poulsard Enfant Terrible

Ganevat makes two very different Poulsards. The Chalasses Vieilles Vignes is the serious one, built on old vines and designed for contemplation. This is the other kind.

L'Enfant Terrible is built around pure fruitiness and drinkability. Wild strawberry, redcurrant, dried rose, a whisper of spice. Spontaneous fermentation, no filtration, nothing in the way. At 12% alcohol and served slightly chilled, it's one of those wines that disappears faster than you planned.

That said, it's not simple. There's a saline, mineral thread running through it and a silkiness on the palate that only comes from a careful hand in the cellar. Ganevat doesn't make careless wines, even when he's making easy ones.

The name says it all.