2023 Patatsfontein Steen

The site says it all here - a tiny block of Chenin planted in 1984, 800m up in the Keisie Valley, on slate and limestone soils that seem to shape every part of this wine. The 2023 vintage came off clean and steady, and winemaker Reenen Borman reckons it’s the best version yet.

Fruit was handpicked, whole-bunch pressed and sent to old French barrels without any additions. There’s a bit of stirring early on, then it’s left alone for 10 months on full lees. A few barrels go through malo, most don’t. No fining, no filtration, just a little SO₂ before bottling.

It’s a tightly wound Chenin with serious cut - not lean, just focused. There’s citrus and white fruit in there, maybe some hay or wet stone, but the point is how all those bits come together. You can feel the altitude and the soil more than anything else. It’s savoury, dry, and built to evolve, though it’s already got plenty to say now. Just a proper, grown-up white from one of the Cape’s sharpest producers.

97 points
"Complex aromatics of pear, peach, lime, hay, herbs and floral perfume... wonderfully focused and composed with great fruit concentration and long, savoury finish."
- Christian Eedes

95 points
"Steely as well as slightly salty... citrus, wax and lemongrass flavours with a hint of wood spices."
- Tim Atkin MW (SA Special Report 2023)