2023 Sadie Family Swartland Columella

Columella has long been regarded as one of South Africa’s greatest reds, and this 2023 iteration only strengthens that reputation. With its tiny allocations, securing a bottle of this remarkable wine is an achievement in itself.

Columella is pretty much the wine that put the modern Swartland revolution on the map. While Eben Sadie’s single-vineyard releases get a lot of attention, this is his main game - a massive regional blend designed to capture the whole Swartland in a single glass.

The 2023 release pulls from eleven different vineyards across seven distinct soil types, including granite, slate and gravel. It is built on a core of Syrah (38%), but the rest is a complex mix of Mourvèdre, Grenache, Carignan, Tinta Barocca, Cinsault and even a little Pinotage. Eben keeps the oak old and the handling gentle, aging it for a year in barrels and then another year in large foudres to let it settle.

The result is powerful but surprisingly light on its feet at just 13.5% alcohol. It isn't a fruit bomb; it is savoury and detailed. You get dark bramble fruit and black cherry, but it is the other layers that hook you - think dried herbs, sandalwood and a distinct 'Negroni spice' character. It feels sappy and vibrant rather than heavy. Ideally, give this eight years in the cellar, but if you must drink it now, use a decanter.

98 points
"One of the Cape's greatest reds."
- Tim Atkin MW (South Africa Report 2025)

98 points
"Intense yet full of finesse and elegance, with firm and very fine-grained tannins. Long, continuous and delicious, with a beautiful interplay of fruit and spice. I love this wine."
- James Suckling