2023 Samuel Billaud Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu

Samuel Billaud's holdings in Mont de Milieu are three separate plots at the Chablis end of the vineyard, two of them planted to old vines. Even in 2023, a more generous vintage across the appellation, yields here came in at just 45 hl/ha — a reflection of what old vines on a well-farmed site naturally produce.

Mont de Milieu sits on the right bank of the River Serein, and it has a different personality to the left bank crus. More fragrant, more textural, less about brute minerality and more about detail and finesse. Billaud's version leans into that: there's real salinity and mineral crunch underneath, but the nose is stylish and complete, with white fruit and a fleshy quality that gives it immediate appeal.

The palate is vibrant and almost austere in the best sense - the kind of wine that demands another sip before you've finished the first. Chalky, intensely mineral through the finish, with the sort of focused energy that makes you pay attention.

Serious Chablis at a level that warrants proper cellaring.