2024 Bicknell FC Applecross Chardonnay

Like its Pinot Noir counterpart, the Applecross Chardonnay has found a new home at the historic St Andrews site in the Yarra Valley. Sourced from a block of P58 clone vines planted back in 1984, this release combines that old-vine depth with Dave Bicknell's signature obsession with drive and detail. If you like your Chardonnay with cut and precision, this is right in the slot.

The winemaking here is deliberate and stripped back. The fruit was whole-bunch pressed straight to a mix of puncheons and hogsheads for a natural ferment. Crucially, Dave blocked the malolactic fermentation entirely. That decision preserves the natural malic acid, keeping the wine taut and nervy. It spent 11 months on lees to build some texture, but the focus remains firmly on freshness rather than weight.

It is pure and energetic, opening with a distinct hit of matchstick reduction that gives way to lime zest, white peach and white flowers. There is an intricate structure here - it feels linear and focused, with a bright line of acidity that pulls everything long. It holds its complexity without an ounce of flab, making it a joy to drink now but giving it the balance to age beautifully. One of the best Applecross Chardonnays to date.