2025 Varney Wines Fiano

Alan Varney’s Fiano is a slightly offbeat rendition that prioritises texture over simple zip. Sourced from Langhorne Creek, the fruit benefits from cool nights that keep the natural acidity vibrant and tight.

The winemaking is where it gets interesting: 24 hours of skin contact followed by wild fermentation in seasoned Burgundy barrels and stainless steel. With hyper-oxidation and frequent lees stirring, the result is a nutty, savoury wine with a serious crunch. A bright citrus and grapefruit core is wrapped in exotic layers of candied ginger, lemongrass, and tropical fruit.

The twang of phenolic bitterness on the finish makes it a fantastic food wine, with enough weight for rich pork dishes yet plenty of freshness for seafood. If you’re after a small-batch white with character and a bit of an edge, this is a total winner.

95 points
"A warmer year and a riper wine than the notably cool-fruited (and good) iteration last year... real energy and crackle that works in concert with the acid line and in balance with the textural feel. Lovely wine, and with impressive length to it."
- Marcus Ellis (Halliday Wine Companion)