2021 Dominique Portet Brut Nature

This is a pretty serious sparkling from the team at Dominique Portet. Sourced from a leased vineyard up in Gladysdale in the Upper Yarra - prime territory for sparkling - it’s a blend of 55% Chardonnay and 45% Pinot Noir.

They’ve gone for a Brut Nature style here, which means zero dosage or added sugar. Sometimes that style can be a bit stark, but the 2021 vintage had enough warmth to give the fruit some genuine richness. It spent a solid 36 months on lees to build texture, and remarkably, they’ve blended in reserve wines that go back 8 to 10 years (up to 15% of the total blend). That’s where the real complexity comes from.

The result is sharp and focused but has plenty of layers. You get a fine mousse and bright fruit, but that backbone of older reserve wine gives it a depth you don't always see in local fizz. It’s elegant, bone dry and pure. If you like your sparklings precise and dry, this is definitely worth a look.