2023 Benjamin Leroux Bourgogne Aligote

Benjamin Leroux has always had a soft spot for Aligoté, long before the grape’s current revival. Back in his Comte Armand days he was already championing it, and today he continues to show just how good the variety can be when handled with care. The fruit comes mostly from old vines in Meursault’s Les Belles Roses, planted to the superior Aligoté Doré strain, known for lower yields and more depth of flavour.

For the 2023, Leroux has once again kept things precise but unforced, fermenting and ageing in a mix of seasoned ovals, WineGlobes and stoneware amphora. The result is bright, graceful and layered, without the rustic edges Aligoté sometimes carries. The warm harvest window was neatly dodged thanks to Leroux’s early picking, and what you get in the glass is freshness, energy and a lovely sense of clarity.

Production is, as ever, tiny, and it remains one of the benchmark examples of Aligoté in Burgundy. Those who know the style will appreciate just how fine and pure this is.