2023 Jean-Francois Ganevat Poulsard Chalasses VV

Poulsard is one of Jura's most ancient native varieties and one of its most misunderstood. It produces wines of extraordinary delicacy, often almost translucent in the glass, with an aromatic finesse and freshness that can be startling if you're expecting something conventional from a red wine. Ganevat is among its finest interpreters.

Les Chalasses is a single-parcel site, and the vines here are around 50 years old. That age adds concentration and precision to a grape that doesn't naturally lean that way. Hand-picked, spontaneously fermented in old 500-litre demi-muids, no additives, unfiltered. The winemaking gets out of the way.

The result is a Poulsard with real depth behind the lightness: wild strawberry, rosehip, blood orange, and a fine floral lift, with beautiful acidity and tannins so fine you barely register them. Spiced, mineral, and long.

For anyone who hasn't spent time with this variety, this is the wine to start with.