2023 Oakridge Hazeldene Vineyard Chardonnay

Few winemakers in Australia understand Chardonnay like Dave Bicknell. Under his stewardship, Oakridge has become a benchmark for dsite-specific Chardonnay, each single-vineyard release a masterclass in how site and season shape the grape.

Hazeldene, planted in 2013 on the north-facing red volcanic slopes of Gladysdale, is one of his best sites. The cool, wet 2023 vintage brought tiny yields and a drawn-out ripening, gifting fruit with exceptional flavour and piercing natural acidity. Dave treats it with his trademark restraint: hand-picking, whole-bunch pressing, wild fermentation in 500L French oak puncheons, and 14 months on lees to build texture without blunting its purity.

The result is classic Bicknell - aromatics of white flowers, kaffir lime, flint and underripe stone fruit, a palate that’s taut and shimmering with lemon rind and peach, and an underlying mineral thread that hums through the finish. It’s a Chardonnay of tension, precision and authority - proof, once again, that in the hands of a master, the Yarra Valley can rival the world’s great white wine regions.

96 points
"Fans out beautifully on the long, saline and very satisfying palate. Terrific now, this should age superbly over the next five to 10 years."
- Philip Rich (Halliday Wine Companion)

96 points
"Whenever the phrase ‘essence of chardonnay’ goes through my mind, it’s always good sign. Here it is... This is a long, scintillating chardonnay but there’s plenty going on along the way. A gentle/modest flintiness is the icing."
- Campbell Mattinson (The Wine Front)