2024 Christian Moreau et Fils Chablis AC

To say the 2024 vintage was "challenging" is a massive understatement. It was the smallest harvest the Moreau family has ever seen, with yields down about 60% for this wine alone. The fact that this bottling exists at all is a minor miracle, and the fact that it looks this good is all due to Fabien Moreau’s farming.

Despite the tiny quantities, the sourcing remains impeccable. It comes from two distinct parcels: the flinty, mineral-rich soils of Béru and a cooler site near the Grand Cru hill of Fontenay. That combination is the secret sauce here - you get the racy, stony drive from Béru balanced by the elegance and finesse of Fontenay.

Fabien fermented the majority in stainless to lock in freshness, but he sent about 15% to barrel to give the wine some shoulders and texture. It is mineral, generous and beautifully layered. Given the severe shortage, this is not a vintage to hesitate on - it is a rare snapshot of a historic estate triumphing over a brutal season.