2024 Haddow & Dineen Riesling Sehnsucht

Haddow & Dineen aren’t here to play it safe, and this Riesling proves the point. Off a tiny Coal River Valley vineyard they farm themselves, it’s picked by hand, wild fermented, left unfined and unfiltered. A stint on skins gives it that gritty, pithy texture that pulls it well clear of the squeaky-clean Aussie Riesling mould.

The 2024 vintage feels electric – citrus, spice and stone, but with real phenolic grip and length that makes you sit up. It’s got tension without being austere, and flavour without tipping into easy-drinking fruitiness. The kind of Riesling that gets under your skin a bit, and has critics throwing out some pretty wild praise.

Small volumes, serious personality, and about as far as you can get from boring. If you think Tassie Riesling is all pristine lime juice and nothing else, this will change your mind.