2024 Savaterre Chardonnay
Keppell Smith first laid eyes on what would become the Savaterre vineyard back in 1996, a granite-rich slope on Beechworth’s legendary “Golden Mile”. Since then, his Chardonnays have carved out a place among the most profound in the country - complex, long-lived, and absolutely world-class.
The 2024 vintage was exceptional for the estate. A small crop and close-planted, mature vines allowed the fruit to ripen slowly through long warm days and cool nights. Keppell describes this as a year for "finesse and precision," and while the wine has the signature Savaterre intensity, it’s remarkably tightly coiled and focused.
Aromatically, it’s all white nectarine, lime blossom, and beeswax, backed by more complex notes of sandalwood, hazelnut, and pink grapefruit. The palate is driven by a powerful line of acidity and a length that persists for minutes. Decant if drinking young - this wine will continue to build and evolve over two decades.
One of Australia’s great Chardonnays, from one of the most detail-obsessed producers in the game. Extremely limited.
97 points
"Here is the art of winemaker laid bare, in all of its beauty as well as mystery. It's a slow reveal, all the better to take in a wine both plush in fruit and fine in structure, citrusy fresh and oak defined, savoury influenced and varietally pure... A suitable ending with saline cut and grip on the long finish."
- Jeni Port (Halliday Wine Companion)
96 points
"This is a richer iteration of Savaterre Chardonnay with not much in the way of struck match... spicy oak, a mix of nectarine, pear, lime and melon with a tangy and savoury finish of outstanding length."
- Gary Walsh (The Wine Front)