2024 Stefano Lubiana Pinot Gris
Estate-grown in the Derwent Valley on Steve Lubiana’s certified biodynamic vineyard, this classy Pinot Gris comes from a single block and is made with the same level of care and detail he brings to his Chardonnay and sparkling wines.
There’s a touch of skin contact, and time in oak, which gives the wine more grip and shape than most - not a lot, but enough to shift it out of the everyday. The colour’s got a faint blush, the nose is straw, pear skin and spice, and the palate lands broad and textural, with ripe orchard fruit and a slightly savoury edge.
It’s not trying to be Alsace, and it’s definitely not the usual featherweight Gris either. This is grown-up Pinot Gris - quietly confident, layered, and built for the table. Drink now or over the next few years while that texture still has a bit of bounce.