NV Castagna Aqua Santa 500ml

There’s really nothing else in Australia quite like Aqua Santa. Julian Castagna makes it from botrytised and dried Viognier grapes, building the wine through a solera that’s been ticking along for nearly two decades. It matures slowly under a thin veil of flor, developing that savoury, nutty edge you usually only see in old sherry or vin jaune.

It pours a deep gold and smells like a pantry in autumn – orange peel, quince paste, apricot, honey, walnut and a little spice. The palate is rich and layered, but it’s not heavy or cloying; there’s a lift of acidity and freshness that keeps it alive. The finish is long and dry-edged, a perfect match for soft, ripe cheese or anything a bit funky.

Tiny quantities made, and impossible to copy – this is one of those wines that could only come from Castagna.

97 points
"a stimulating and essential cheese wine... marvellously complex, fresh, clean and not too sweet."
- Jeni Port (Halliday Wine Companion)